Collide-o is a game where speed rules. The deck is divided up evenly among the players with one card being set in the center of the table. Each player may bring 4-5 cards into their playing hand. As soon as a card is played they may add an additional card from their draw pile. The point is to be the first player to get down to a single card. You move through your cards by placing them on the cards that have been played, or on the initial card if no one has played a card yet.

Each card is broken into three sections that have colors on them. You play a card on the outside on the line that is being created, play can go in either direction away from the center, but can never be played back towards the center. You must lay a card that has two matching colors that are the same color as the two sections you are laying the card on top of. There are some wild cards that can be played as any color, their are also some sections that have two colors on them. These sections can be played as either color.

Once the initial card is turned face up it is a ferocious battle to get down to your last card. If everyone playing gets stuck then you remove and discard the last card that was played and then begin setting cards on the line again. One additional rule to support this card game: If you see another player place a card that does not fit call attention to the mistake, if it was indeed an error have them remove the card from the line and add it back into their hand. Play immediately resumes.

Collide-O is a card game that you will love, if is fun, fast paced and slightly addicting. It is fast enough to play in 5 minutes, but fun enough to play for hours.

The basic strategy of the game is to keep as many bunnies alive as possible while eliminating your opponents’ bunnies. Of course all the other players are trying to do the same thing which can get dreadfully vengeful, horribly nasty, hilariously messy, and just plain fun! While folks are trying to eliminate each other’s bunnies, each player is also trying to collect as many Carrots as possible. At the end of the game, one of the Carrots is revealed to be the Magic (or winning) Carrot and each game, the Magic Carrot will be different. Logically, the more Carrots that a player collects, the better his chances will be of winning the game. Collecting as many Carrots as possible is another basic strategy of the game.

Let’s Hop Right In
GETTING STARTED

STEP #01: The game comes with three decks of cards. Unwrap the small cards first and take a look at them. You will see that there are three different kinds of small cards: Carrot Cards, Cabbage Cards and Water Cards. Shuffle each deck separately and place them on your table. We will return to these small cards in STEP #03.

STEP #02: Next, unwrap the large cards. The backs of these cards are either Blue, Yellow or Pink. The Blue and the Yellow cards feature a Sinister Bunny and the Pink cards feature a Timid Bunny.

Shuffle all of the Blue and Yellow cards together. You will probably want this initial shuffle to be a really good one to make sure that you have a proper mix of the cards. The Blue and Yellow cards together will form the Draw Pile and should be placed face down on your table where everyone can reach it.

STEP #03: The Pink cards are the Carrots that each player will try to collect in order to win the game. These 12 cards should be placed face up on your table and close to the decks of small cards. The last Pink card is the Kaballa’s Market Starter Card. The Kaballa’s Market Starter Card lists the prices of Cabbage Cards, Water Cards and Carrots that players may purchase during the game. (For more details on Kaballa’s Market, please see the Bunny Bits.)

The game also comes with 6 fancy dodecahedral dice. (Please, don’t be too impressed, we had to look up the word dodecahedral to write this book!) These twelve-sided dice are used with many of the cards during the game. For now though, just lay them out near the Draw Pile.

Hey! What happened to the small Carrot Cards? You may have noticed that the small Carrot Cards are not in the picture above. Here’s why: the small Carrot Cards will not be used until the end of the game. So for now, we suggest that you set them off the table and in a place where no one is likely to look at them or knock them over. We will talk about these small Carrot Cards again a bit later.

STEP #04: Deal each player 7 cards from the Draw Pile. Throughout the game each player will always have 7 cards.

There are 5 types of Killer Bunnies® cards; RUN, SPECIAL, VERY SPECIAL, PLAY IMMEDIATELY and KABALLA DOLLA. Most cards have the type title printed in the top window of the card and a matching color bullet in the top left corner. KABALLA DOLLA cards have big numbers in the center of the cards. Take a minute to make sure you know the type of each of your 7 cards.

CARD INFORMATION

KABALLA DOLLA cards: The cards with the big numbers in the center are KABALLA DOLLA cards. We like to call them the ‘Bunny Money’. When you draw a KABALLA DOLLA card you must place it face up in front of you and draw another card. KABALLA DOLLA cards cannot be kept in your hand. If any player has one, or several KABALLA DOLLA cards in their hand right now, then place these cards down on the table and draw cards. If you get more KABALLA DOLLA cards, then keep placing them down and drawing cards.

Hey! What do I do if I draw a KABALLA DOLLA card during the game? If you draw a KABALLA DOLLA card during the game you must immediately place it down on the table and draw a card.

All of the Bunny Money that you have collected is yours to keep or spend at the market. We’ll tell you why buying Cabbage Cards and Water Cards is helpful a bit later. You already know why buying Carrots is a good idea, you’ll need Carrots to win the game!

PLAY IMMEDIATELY cards: When a player draws a PLAY IMMEDIATELY card he must announce it by stopping the game and playing the card immediately. All PLAY IMMEDIATELY cards in this Starter Deck are Terrible Misfortune cards which means that if the player who drew the card has a bunny in play it will have to die (and be discarded). However, at the start of the game there are no bunnies in play. All PLAY IMMEDIATELY cards held by players before the game starts are discarded and cards are drawn. Since our first game has not started yet, you might want to take a minute to discard all of your PLAY IMMEDIATELY cards now. If you discarded, then you will need to draw a replacement card.

Check! Each player should be holding 7 cards. The types of these cards should be only RUN, SPECIAL or VERY SPECIAL. We will explain the differences between these types of cards a bit later. But for now, let’s get set up for the first round of play.

(For more details on Card Information, please see the Bunny Bits.)

SETTING UP THE FIRST ROUND

During the game, players will be asked to choose which cards they will play two rounds in advance. This requires a bit of planning. But don’t worry, we’re going to walk you through it.

The first card that you will want to play is a bunny card. You can recognize a ‘bunny card’ by the names of the bunnies: Congenial, Gleeful, Lumbering, Sinister and Timid. There are twenty-five bunnies (five different colors and five different kinds), so hopefully everyone should have a bunny at the start of the game.

Hey! What if I was unlucky and didn’t get a bunny card? Well, let’s just say (for the first time you play the game) that if you did not get a bunny card in your first draw of 7 cards, then you may quietly sift through the Draw Pile and exchange one of your cards for a bunny card. Later, we’ll give you a few suggestions for starting the game without a bunny. (For more details on starting a game without a bunny, please see the Bunny Bits.)

Now that everyone has a bunny (wink, wink), place it face down on the table in front of you. This will be the first card that you will play. It is called the TOP RUN card.

Next you will have to pick the second card that you will play. You may choose any card in your hand. Here are a few good choices:

1) Choose A Carrot: These cards allow a player to get one (or two) Carrots from the market. Remember that the more Carrots you have at the end of the game, the better your chances will be to win.
2) Weapon: These cards allow you to attempt to kill an opponent’s bunny right away.
3) Feed The Bunny: These cards also allow you to attempt to kill an opponent’s bunny, but more slowly. The opponent may, however, be able to buy Cabbage and Water to save his bunny.

Many of the cards are very unique. Read carefully to see what each card will do.

Hey! What’s that rectangular box on the left side of every card mean? Why is it Pink on some cards? When the rectangular box on a card is Pink it means that you must have a bunny in play first before you can use the card. It is the reason that we all wanted to play a bunny card first so that we would have the freedom to play any other card from our hand second.

After you have chosen your second card to play, place it face down on the table below the first one. This will be your BOTTOM RUN card.

Check! Each player should have two cards placed face down on the table that they will use during the first and second rounds of play. All KABALLA DOLLA cards are on the table face up and all PLAY IMMEDIATELY cards have been discarded. Finally, each player should have 5 cards left in their hand. These 5 cards may be RUN, SPECIAL and VERY SPECIAL only. Take a look at the picture to see an example of a table with four players.

Once you have placed your cards down in the TOP and BOTTOM RUN positions you may not change them. If you forget which cards you put down you are allowed to take a quick peek!

Playing The Game

Determine with a roll of the dice which player will go first. The first player will follow these four steps (FLIP, SLIDE, DRAW, REPLACE):
01) Flip over the TOP RUN card.
02) Slide the BOTTOM RUN card up to the TOP RUN card position.
03) Draw a replacement card from the Draw Pile.
04) Replace the BOTTOM RUN card with a card from your hand.

Each player will take a turn clockwise around the table going through the four steps (FLIP, SLIDE, DRAW, REPLACE). At the end of a few rounds the table may look something like this:

As you can see, all of the bunnies that are ‘in play’ form what we will call The Bunny Circle.

During the first round of play almost everyone plays a bunny, if they have one. However, as the game continues, each player will choose his own unique strategy.

(For more choices instead of flipping over your TOP RUN card, please see “A Turn, A Round” in the Bunny Bits.)

Hey! When do I use the fancy dice? Take a look on any of the cards and you’ll notice eight small squares on the right border. When these squares are filled in, the colors of the squares indicate which dice you will need in order to play the card.

The game continues on with each player choosing one card to play each round. Folks will blissfully collect Carrots, and vengefully kill bunnies over and over again using Weapon cards, Feed The Bunny cards, etc. The Bunny Bits gives you more information about these (and other) cards. Just don’t forget to laugh, growl, carry on, and exhibit both hilarity and general mayhem. Also, it may not be a bad idea to have a pretty decent sense of humor.

Ending The Game

Hey! When is the game over? The game is over when the last Carrot is chosen or purchased from the market. If a player used his TOP RUN card to finish the game, then he does not draw a replacement card.

It is important to keep in mind that at the end of the game if a player does not have at least one bunny in The Bunny Circle, then he cannot win the game.

It is important to keep in mind that at the end of the game if a player does not have at least one bunny in The Bunny Circle, then he cannot win the game. So important, in fact, that we printed it twice!

The need to keep at least one bunny ‘alive’ in The Bunny Circle is part of the basic strategy of Killer Bunnies®. It is why players try to eliminate their opponent’s bunnies before the end of the game. If a player has no bunnies in The Bunny Circle when the game ends, then he must give all of his Carrots away to the player that has at least one bunny in The Bunny Circle and the most KABALLA DOLLA saved.

To determine the winner, retrieve the small deck of Carrot Cards that you put aside at the start of the game. The last card in the deck (the bottom card) is the Magic Carrot for this particular game and the player holding the Carrot with the matching picture is the winner. Just for fun, many people choose to go through the small deck of Carrot Cards one card at a time from the top to the bottom. This lets the suspense build. Try it, it’s fun!

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Killer Bunnies Card Game

$30.00

$23.95

You save $6.05 (20%)!

Killer Bunnies is a funny and satirical non-collectible, expandable card game. The new Epsilon Edition Starter Deck comes with a bonus Yellow Booster Deck. This game is played with only 1 copy of the game, so players do NOT need to bring their own decks to the table.

The object: Collect as many “Carrots” as possible, hoping that one of them is the randomly predetermined “Magic Carrot”. In doing so, you must keep your bunnies alive as long as possible, while eliminating your opponents’ Bunnies because once all the Carrots have been claimed you must have a living Bunny to win.

The problem: Your opponents are armed with outrageous weapons (from level 1 weapons such as a “Kitchen Whisk” to level 12 weapons such as the “Nuclear Warhead”) and you must roll higher than these levels to survive.

Use cards to defend your Bunnies, such as the hilarious “Magic Spatula” or other special cards, or use a “Feed The Bunny” card to force your opponent to buy cabbage and water (if they have the money to do so…)

Your opponents, as the back of the box quotes, “will stop at nothing to keep you from winning the game, which can get dreadfully vengeful, horribly nasty, hilariously messy, and just plain fun!”

Set Up:

Shuffle the snake cards. Place the stack face down on the playing surface and fan the cards out. Draw any one of the fanned cards and place it face up in the middle of the playing area. This is the starter Card

Start Playing:

The youngest player starts first. He, or she picks one card from anywhere in teh card fan and turns it face up. Do any of the card’s colors match the starter card? If so, place it next to the starter card with the matching colors touching. If the card doesn’t match, lay it face up in the playing area to start a new snake.

Play continues clockwise, with each player drawing one card from anywhere in the fan and either matching it to a snake under construction, or starting a new card if there is no color match.

Wild Cards:

The rainbow colored head and tail cards are wild cards. They can be placed next to any color mid-section for a match.

Winning a Snake:

If you can place a head or taili card to complete a snake, you win that snake. Say “Hisss” and slide it in front of you. The snakes you win form your snake pit. ( a whole snake has at one head, one mid section and on tail.

Combining two snakes into one:

If you draw a mid-section card and one of its colors matches one snake under construction and its other color matches a different snake under construction you can use that card to combine them into one gigantic snake! This completes the snake, you say “Hisss” and add it to your snake pit.

Ending the Game:

Keep playing until all the cards in the fan have been drawn. leave any unfinished snakes in teh middle. Now, count hte cards in your snake pit. The player with the most cards wins. In case of a tie, the player with the longest snake wins.

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HISSS Card Game

$13.00

HISSS card game provides fun for the whole family. Help your kids build snakes and match colors with HISSS. In this game you flip over tiles one by one trying to match colored snake pieces until an entire snake (head, body & tail) has been completed. HISS is a great game for parents and children and it teaches colors, matching and basic decision making skills for youngsters. This is a game you can play with your 4 year old and still have enough entertainment to have both parents and children enjoying the fun!

HISSS allows players to take turns drawing tiles and adding them to existing snakes. If the tile doesn’t fit anywhere start a new snake. As soon as you add the final peice that completes a snake, you collect that snake. The player with the most tiles at the end of the card game wins. This is clearly a game for all ages.

Age Range:

3+

Number of Players:

2-5

Play Length:

about 15 minutes

Manufacture:

Gamewright

Education:

Matching, Shapes

Contents
40 Find Me tiles
60 Keep Me cards

Note before playing: We’ve included rules for two
different games, depending on the ages and skills of the
players in your group. For younger players or for play
with mixed age groups, try Finders Keepers. For more
experienced players, try Expert Finders Keepers.

FINDERS KEEPERS | 2 to 6 players • Ages 4 and up

Object
Be the first player to collect all of your Keep Me cards
in your Keepers pile.

Set Up
• Shuffle the Keep Me cards and deal out 12 to each player (10 if playing
with five or six players). All players should spread out their Keep Me
cards face up in front of them.
•Shuffle and stack the Find Me tiles to form a face down draw pile in
the center of the playing area.

How to Play
The first player to spot something colored blue in the room starts the
game and play continues to the left. On your turn, reveal the top Find
Me tile for all to see. (Place it face up next to the draw pile to start the
discard pile.) All players now look at their Keep Me cards to see if that
object appears on any of their cards.

If you can find that object on any of your Keep Me cards, take those
cards and place them face down in your Keepers pile near your playing
area. Look carefully as some objects may be upside down or hidden
behind other objects!

After all players have looked through all of their Keep Me cards and
added to their Keepers piles, the player to the left reveals the next
Find Me tile. Play continues as described above.

Winning the Game
The first player to collect all of his Keep Me cards in his Keepers pile
wins the game. If more than one player places her final Keep Me card in
her Keepers pile on the same turn, then all of those players are winners!

EXPERT FINDERS KEEPERS | 2 – 4 players • Ages 8 and up

Object
Score the most points by matching your Find Me tiles to the most
Keep Me cards.

Set Up
• Shuffle the 60 Keep Me cards and deal 9 face up to form a 3 x 3 grid in the
middle of the play area. Stack the remaining cards face down within reach of
play.
• Shuffle the 40 Find Me tiles and deal them face down and evenly
between all the players. For 2 players deal 20 to each player; for 3 players deal 13
per player; for 4 players, deal 10. Place any remaining tiles out of play.

How to Play
The last person to have seen a hot air balloon starts the game and
play continues to the left.

On your turn, select one of your face up Find Me tiles that matches an object
on one or more of the face up Keep Me cards in the center. Announce the
object of your choosing and then collect all the cards containing the matching
object from the center grid. Stack your collected cards in a face down
pile next to you. End your turn by replenishing your hand with the top Find
Me tile from your stack. Also replace any captured Keep Me cards from the
reserve stack in the central playing area. Play then proceeds to the left.

Seymour Goes Wild!
Keep Me cards that feature Seymour
have special value as they are worth double
the points at the end of the game. When
possible, try to collect Keep Me cards
that feature him!

Notes
· Remember, you may only choose one of your face up Find Me tiles to match
with any number of Keep Me cards from the center.
· You must take a match if you can make one. Otherwise, pass
your turn.

Ending the Game and Scoring
The game ends when no more Keep Me cards can be captured from the
middle. Scoring is determined by counting captured Keep Me cards: 2 points
for Seymour Keep Me cards and 1 point for all other Keep Me cards. The
player with the most.

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Can You See What I See? Finders Keepers Game

$15.00

$13.95

You save $1.05 (7%)!

Can you see a seashell? How about a kangaroo? Find both of these and more in this visual game of hide and seek just for you! Reveal a Find Me tile and try to find the featured object among your set of Keep Me cards. Look carefully as objects may be hidden and you may have more than one match on your cards. Be the first player to collect all of your cards and you have one sharp eye!

Both parents and children can look at one of his visual puzzles and be equally challenged. We hope to have captured this spirit in this game. As you play, you’ll refine visual discrimination skills as well as sharpen focus and concentration!

Chomp your way to the top of the food chain by collecting all of the cards. The first player to collect all of the cards wins the game.

Before You Dive In…

Each player will want to familiarize themselves with the game’s sea creatures and know who chomps what. Take the time to look over the cards and learn each critter’s place in the food chain.

Chomp! Food Chain Explained

The higher a creature is on the food chain, the more it can chomp. Creatures cannot chomp their own kind (this is a civilized game, after all) or anything higher up the food chain. Nobody can chomp an Octopus or an Electric eel, which are special cards explained below.

This is CHOMP!’s food chain chomp order:

Shark – Is at the top of the food chain. Nothing can chomp a Shark, and a Shark can chomp anything except another Shark, an Octopus or Electric Eel.

Seal – Can chomp a Big Fish, Little Fish, Shrimp, or Plankton

Big Fish – Can chomp a Little Fish, Shrimp, or Plankton.

Little Fish – Can chomp Shrimp or Plankton.

Shrimp – Can only chomp Plankton.

Plankton – Can’t chomp anything (sorry, guys).

Set-up

Once you are familiar with the chomping order, remove the two Chomp! sequence cards, then shuffle and deal the remaining cards face down, equally to each player. Place any extra cards back in the box, out of play. Stack your cards face down in a pile in front of you. Don’t look!

Game Play (for three or more players)

In unison, all players turn over the top card of their pile into the center of the playing area. The first player to slap the card with the lowest creature on the food chain and shout “Chomp!” wins the round. He collects all the cards his card can chomp and places them face down in a separate discard pile. If your card couldn’t be chomped, place it in your discard pile.

Note: If the lowest card is yours, you are not allowed to chomp.

Example

Four players turn over a Seal card, a Shark card, a Big Fish card, and another Big Fish card. Since the Big Fish is the lowest creature on this particular food chain, only the players who turned over the Seal and Shark cards can chomp this round. The player that slaps either of the Big Fish cards and shouts “Chomp!” first, wins the round.

Possible Outcomes

If the player with the Shark card comps first, he would take all the cards because the Shark is at the top of the food chain.

If the Seal card player chomps first, she would take both Big Fish cards and her own card. She can’t chomp the Shark card because it’s higher than the Seal on the food chain, so the Shark card player puts his card in his discard pile.

Play continues with all players turning over their top card at the same time.

When your pile runs out, shuffle your discard pile, place it face down in front of you and continue playing.

Beware the Bad Chomp!
Be quick – but not so quick that you comp when you shouldn’t

You’ve made a Bad Chomp if you:

slap another player’s card that’s higher on the food chain than yours, or

slap another player’s card that’s the same as yours, or

slap your own card, or

slap a card in an Octopus Ink Out

If you make a Bad Chomp, put the top card of your pile face down in the playing area. The winner of the round takes both of your cards along with the other cards she can chomp. If there is no winner that round, your cards stay in the center. The winner of the next round then takes your cards.

Action Cards

Electric Eel: Feeding Frenzy!

If an Electric Eel card is turned over, a feeding frenzy occurs. Any player can chomp any card, except her own. The first to slap another player’s card and shout “Feeding Frenzy!” takes all the cards, even those that are higher on the food chain.

Octopus: Ink Out!

When an octopus senses danger, it will squirt ink to darken the water surrounding it. Since no one can see, no one can chomp and all cards played are set aside. Each player plays another card. The first to slap the lowest card and shout “Chomp!” gets any cards from the current round she is allowed to chomp as well as all the cards from the Octopus Ink Out round. Any cards from the current round she can’t chomp, are reclaimed by the players who turned them over.

If you chomp when an Octopus card is turned over, you’ve made a Bad Chomp.

Octopus vs. Electric Eel

If an Octopus and an Electric Eel turn up at the same time, the Eel prevails and starts a Feeding Frenzy!

Breaking a Tie

If two or more players chomp at the same time, set aside the cards just played. Each player plays another card. The first to slap the lowest card and shout “Chomp!” wins all the cards from the tie round. She also gets any cards from the previous round that she is allowed to chomp. Any cards she can’t chomp are reclaimed by the players who turned them over.

Ending the Game

If all your cards get chomped up by other players, you’re washed up and out of the game. Keep playing until there are only 2 players who have cards. The last 2 players can either count their cards and declare the one with the most cards the winner, or they can switch to one of the 2-player games and continue playing.

2 Player Underwater War

Each player turns over the top card in his pile at the same time. The card higher on the food chain wins, and that player takes the cards. In a tie, each player places 2 cards face down and 1 card face up in the center. The face-up card that’s higher on the food chain takes all of the cards. If an Electric Eel is turned up, the first player to slap the Eel card and shout “Feeding Frenzy!” takes the cards. If an Octopus card is turned up, each player turns over the next card in her school; the player with card that’s higher on the food chain takes all the cards.

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Chomp Card Game

$11.00

Plunge into a fast-paced undersea world where life is survival of the quickest. Identify the lowest creature in the food chain then slap it before other players scarf it down. Big fish chomp little fish and everyone chomps plankton. Watch out for the ink-squirting octopus and if you spot an electric eel, get ready for an all-out feeding frenzy! Collect all the cards and you’re ruler of the deep blue sea!

Chomp! Is a great tool to help teach children about the food chain. Players learn about the hierarchy of ocean species through employing skills such as visual discrimination and sequencing. It also helps to sharpen reflexes and teaches quick thinking and analysis while playing a fast-moving game.

Prospector, captain, mayor, trader, settler, craftsman, or builder?
Which roles will you play in the new world? Will you own the most
prosperous plantations? Will you build the most valuable buildings?
You have but one goal: achieve the greatest prosperity and highest respect!
This is shown by the player who earns the most victory points?

GOAL
The game is played over several rounds. In each round, each player
chooses one of seven different roles and, thereby, offers all players, in
clockwise order, the action associated with that role.
So, for example, with the settler, players can place new plantations, on
which, with the help of the craftsman, players can produce goods. Players
can then sell these goods to the trading house with the trader or, with the
captain, ship them to the old world. With the money earned from such
sales, the players. with the builder, may build buildings in the city, and so
on.
The player who best manages the changing roles with their associated
actions and special privileges, will achieve the greatest prosperity and the
highest respect and, thereby, win the game.
The winner is the player who earns the most victory points.

CONTENTS
5 player boards each has 12 island spaces and 12 city spaces as
well as a summary of the 7 roles
1 governor card indicates the starting player of the round
8 role cards one each of settler, mayor, builder, craftsman,
trader, and captain; and 2 prospectors
1 game board for the various buildings and the money
49 buildings 5 large violet buildings (2 spaces),
2 each of 12 small violet buildings, and
20 non-violet production buildings
54 doubloons 46 @ 1 and 8 @ 5
58 island tiles 8 quarry tiles and 50 plantation tiles: 8 coffee,
9 tobacco, 10 corn, 11 sugar, and 12 indigo
1 colonist ship for the colonists
100 colonists brown round wooden markers
1 trading house for selling goods
50 goods 9 of coffee (dk brown) and tobacco (lt brown),
10 of corn (yellow), 11 of sugar (white)
and indigo (blue) wooden barrels
5 cargo ships for sending goods to the old world
50 VP chips hexagonal chips: 32 @ 1 and 18 @ 5

PREPARATION
Place the game board in the middle of the table. Place all the buildings on their assigned spaces on the game
board (see below).
Sort the doubloons by value and place them on the bank on the game board (see below).
Each player takes:
• 1 player board (placed before him on the table)
• money:
- with 3 players: 2 doubloons – with 4 players: 3 doubloons – with 5 players: 4 doubloons
The players store their doubloons on the windrose on their player boards, so that all players can see how much
money each player has.
• 1 plantation tile. First, the players choose a starting player using any method they choose. This player takes
the governor card and a blue indigo tile (which he places face-up on any of the 12 spaces on his island). The
other players take the following in clockwise order:
- with 3 players: 2nd player: indigo / 3rd player: corn
- with 4 players: 2nd player: indigo / 3rd and 4th players: corn
- with 5 players: 2nd and 3rd players: indigo / 4th and 5th players: corn

PLAYING THE GAME
The game is played over several rounds (about 15). Each round is played in
the same way. The player with the governor card begins. He takes one of
the role cards, places it face-up next to his player board, and takes the
action allowed by the role card. Then, his left neighbor takes the action
allowed by that role card, and so on around the table, in clockwise order,
until every player has taken this action once.
Next, the left neighbor of the governor takes his turn: he takes one of the
remaining role cards, places it face-up next to his player board, and takes
the action allowed by the role card. Then, his left neighbor takes the action
allowed by that role card, and so on around the table, in clockwise order,
until every player has taken this action once. Then, his left neighbor takes
a role card, and so on until all players have taken a role card and all players
taken the actions allowed by the role cards taken.
Next, place one doubloon on each of the three role cards that were not
taken by a player during the round. Then, place the used role cards back
on the table next to the unused cards. The left neighbor of the player with
the governor card takes the governor card, becoming the governor for the
next round. He begins the round and the game continues as before.

THE ROLES
Each role grants the player who takes the card a special privilege, and also,
a specific action that can be taken by each player, in clockwise order,
starting with the player who took the role (exception: prospector).

Basic rules for all role cards:
- If a card has one or more doubloons on it, the player who takes the card
gets the doubloons in addition to the privilege and action associated
with the card.
- The action associated with a role card is always taken first by the player
who took the card, followed by the others in clockwise order.
- A player must always take a role card when it is his turn to do so, but he
may choose not to use the action or privilege of the card he choses. The
other players, of course, get their turns at the action of the card.
- The action of a role card is optional (exception: captain). A player may
choose not to or be unable to use the action on his turn.
- A role card remains in front of the player who took it until the end of
the round. It may not be taken by another player in the round.

THE SETTLER (settler phase –> place a new plantation on the island)
The player who chooses this role may take either a quarry tile as his
privilege or one of the face-up plantation tiles and place it on any empty
island space on his player board. Afterwards, each other player, in clockwise
order, may take one of the face-up plantation tiles (not a quarry tile! -
exception: construction hut) and place it on any empty island space on his
player board.

Finally, the settler player puts the untaken plantation tiles face-up on a
plantation discard stack and draws new plantation cards from the facedown
stacks, placing them face-up next to the quarry stack. He draws one
more than the number of players.

Notes:
- Remember the special functions of the hacienda, construction hut, and hospice.
- If there are not enough plantation tiles left in the face-down stacks, the player first
draws and places those. He shuffles the discarded plantation tiles face-down, creates
a new face down stack, and fills the face-up row. If there are insufficient tiles to refill
the face-up row, players in following rounds may have to do without.
- Where a player places quarry and plantation tiles on his island plays no role in the
game. The tiles may not be removed from the island.
- If a player has filled all 12 island spaces on his player board, he may not place
plantation or quarry tiles in future settler phases.
- If there are no more quarry tiles in the quarry tile stack, the settler may not use his
privilege and the owners of a construction hut may not use that special function.

THE MAYOR (mayor phase –> arrival of new colonists)
The tiles (plantation, quarry, or building) have 1 to 3 circles. A player may
place one colonist on each circle on the tiles on his player board. If there is
at least one colonist on a tile, it is considered occupied. Only occupied tiles
may use their functions; unoccupied tiles never function!

The player who chooses this role may first take one colonist from the
colonist supply (not fromthe colonist ship!) as his privilege. Next, the players
take the colonists from the colonist ship one at a time, starting with the
mayor. The players continue to take one colonist at a time, in clockwise
order, until none remain on the colonist ship.

A player may place his new colonist(s), together with all the colonists he
acquired from earlier rounds, on any empty circles on the tiles on his
player board. Thus, a player may move a colonist placed on a circle or San
Juan in an earlier round. If a player cannot place all his colonists,
he may “store” them on the small city of San Juan on his player
board. The colonists remain there until a later mayor phase when
they may be placed on empty circles on the player’s tiles.

As his last duty, the mayor puts new colonists on the colonist
ship to be used in the next mayor phase. For each empty circle
on the buildings on the player boards of all players (empty circles on
plantations and quarries do not count!), the mayor takes one colonist from
the colonist supply and places it on the colonist ship. However, as a
minimum, the mayor should always place at least as many colonists on the
ship as there are players in the game.

Notes:
- Usually, all players place/move their colonists at the same time. If, however, the
players feel that their placement decisions may depend on other’s placements, the
players should place their colonists is the following order: first, the mayor and, then,
the others in clockwise order from the mayor.
- If a mayor forgets (players may remind him) to place new colonists on the colonist
ship, players later place the minimum (number of players) on the colonist ship.
- When the colonist supply runs out, the mayor may not use his privilege and, of
course, he does not refill the colonist ship.
- No player may choose to place colonists in San Juan if he has empty circles
available on his player board. All empty circles must be filled, if possible. Colonists
may not be placed on the circles other than in the mayor phase.

THE BUILDER (builder phase –> build buildings)
The player who chooses this role, can immediately build one building for
one doubloon less than the normal cost as his privilege. He pays the money
to the bank, takes the building from the supply, and places it
on any empty space in the city on his player board. When
placing a large building, the player needs two adjacent
empty spaces. Then, the other players, in clockwise order
from the builder, may, in the same way, each builds one
building (at normal cost).

Note: No player may build more than one building per round.

Quarry
Each occupied quarry that a player owns may reduce the player’s cost for
building a building by 1 doubloon. The limit for such reductions is shown
on the game board: players building buildings in the first column can
reduce their cost by at most 1 doubloon (1 occupied quarry), in the second
column by at most 2 doubloons (2 occupied quarries), in the third column
by at most 3 doubloons (3 occupied quarries), and in the fourth column by
at most 4 doubloons (4 occupied quarries). The mayor’s privilege
reduction is in addition to the quarry reduction, but the cost of a building
may not be reduced below 0 doubloons. A player with 3 occupied quarries
pays the following costs: construction hut: 1 doubloon; office: 3 doubloons;
harbor: 5 doubloons; city hall: 7 doubloons.

Notes:
- Remember the special function of the university.
- If the builder does not build a building, he does not take 1 doubloon for his privilege!
- It is not possible to build on more than 12 city spaces. A player who has no empty
city spaces may not build more buildings.

THE CRAFTSMAN (craftsman phase –> production of goods)
The player who chooses this role, takes goods from the supply according to
his production ability and places them on the windrose on his player
board. Thus, the windrose contains a player’s money and goods. Next, the
other players take goods from the supply according to their abilities, in
clockwise order from the craftsman.

See more details on production abilities under “The production buildings”.

As his last duty, the craftsman takes one additional good (of those he can
produce) from the supply as his privilege.

Notes:
- Remember the special function of the factory.
- If the kind of goods a player produces is exhausted in the supply, he goes without.
- If the craftsman does not produce goods, he does not get an extra good (privilege).

THE TRADER (trader phase –> selling goods)
The player who chooses this role, may immediately sell one good
to the trading house. He takes from the bank the price associated
with the good he sold (0 – 4 doubloons) plus 1 doubloon as his
privilege. Then, in clockwise order from the trader, each other
player may sell one good to the trading house for the price
shown as long as there is room for it in the trading house. The
trader phase ends when all players have had one turn to sell or
when the trading house is full.

When selling, use the following rules:
- The trading house has room for just four goods. When it is full, no other
players may sell goods in this trading phase.
- The trading house buys only different kinds of goods (exception: office).
As his last duty, the trader empties the trading house if it is full with four
goods, placing them in their separate supply piles. If there are fewer than
four goods in the trading house, they remain there. It will be more difficult to
sell goods in the next trader phase, because of the kinds of goods already there
and the fewer number of spaces available.

Notes:
- Remember the special functions of the small and large markets and the office.
- If the trader does not sell, he does not collect the extra doubloon (privilege).
- A player may sell corn to the trading house even though he earns no money for
doing so.

THE CAPTAIN (captain phase –> shipping of goods)
The captain is in charge of shipping goods to the old world. This means
that the captain is the first to load goods on the cargo ships. Then, the other
players follow, in clockwise order from the captain.

Note: in the captain phase, each player may get several turns to load goods on the cargo
ships. When it is a player’s turn to load goods on a cargo ship, he must load if he can.
However, a player may load goods of only one kind on a turn.

The captain phase continues, clockwise around the table, as long as at least
one player has goods he can load.

Loading/shipping rules
When shipping, players must follow these rules:
- Each cargo ship will carry goods of only one kind.
- Players may not load goods on a cargo ship if goods of that same kind
are on one of the other two cargo ships.
- Players may not load goods on a full ship.
- On a player’s turn, he must load goods if he can. However, he may only
load one kind of goods.
- When a player loads goods of a kind, he must load as many of that kind
as he can. A player cannot hold back goods when there is space on a
ship carrying the kind of goods he has. If a player has a kind of goods
that can be loaded on several empty ships, he must choose the ship
where he can load the most goods, leaving none behind, if possible.
- If a player has several kinds of goods that he can load, he may choose
freely, which goods to load. He need not choose the goods that would allow
him to load the most barrels.

Victory points
For each good (each barrel, not each kind of good) a player loads, he earns
one victory point (1 VP) in the form of value 1 victory point chips. When
loading goods onto the cargo ships, all kinds of goods have the same value: 1 VP
per barrel loaded! The goods values used in the trader phase are not used here.
When loading his first kind of goods, the captain takes as his privilege one
extra victory point. He does not get extra VPs for each kind he loads.

A player keeps his victory points, unlike his money and goods, secret from
the others. A player puts his victory point chips face-down on his windrose.
From time to time, players should convert 5 value 1 chips for a single value
5 chip.

Goods storage
When no more goods can be loaded on the cargo ships, the players must
store the goods left on their windroses. Each player may store one good (one
barrel) on his windrose. For all other remaining goods, each player must
find room in one of his warehouses (small or large). If a player does not
have sufficient warehouse space, he must place all extra goods back in the
goods supplies (see more information under “small warehouse”).
As his last duty, the captain unloads all full ships by placing those goods back
in their separate supply piles. Partially full and empty ships remain as they
are until the next captain phase. It will be more difficult to load goods in the
next captain phase, because of the kinds of goods already on the cargo ships
and the fewer number of spaces available.

Notes:
- Remember the special functions of the small and large warehouses, the harbor, and
the wharf.
- If a player cannot store all his extra goods, he may choose which goods to store and
which to return to the goods supply.
- The captain earns only one extra VP as his privilege, regardless of how many kinds
of goods he loads. If he loads no goods, he does not get the extra privilege VP.
- Players only check for goods storage at the end of the captain phase. Players store
goods acquired in other phases on the windroses without limit until the next captain
phase.

THE PROSPECTORS
The player who chooses this role initiates no action, but receives as his
privilege 1 doubloon from the bank.

A new round…
After the last player in the round takes a role and all players complete the
action, if any, of the role, the round ends. Now, the governor takes three
doubloons from the bank, placing one each on the three role cards that
were not selected during the round. The doubloons are placed regardless of
the number of doubloons already on the cards. Role cards with more
doubloons will be more attractive to the players as they get the doubloons
in addition to the privilege of the card. For example, a player choosing a
prospector card with 2 doubloons will get, in total, 3 doubloons for his effort.
Finally, the players return the role cards they selected to the area next to
the game board and the governor gives the governor card to his left
neighbor. The new governor begins the next round by selecting a role card,
and so the game continues

GAME END
The game ends at the end of the round, in which at least one of the
following conditions is satisfied:
- at the end of the mayor phase there are not enough colonists to fill the
colonist ship as required;
- during the builder phase, at least one player builds on his 12th city
space;
- during the captain phase, the last of the victory point chips is used.
When the victory point chips are exhausted, players earning victory points
thereafter should track them with pencil and paper.

The victory points of the players are now scored with pencil and paper.
Each player adds:
- the value of his VP chips (including those noted on pencil and paper) +
- the VP value of his buildings (red-brown number in upper left) +
- the extra VPs of his occupied large buildings

Note: a building scores its victory points even when it is not occupied. Thus, for
example, the five large buildings score 4 VP each when they are not occupied.
The five large buildings score the extra victory points only when they are
occupied!

The player with the most victory points is the winner! If two or more
players tie with the most VPs, the player with the most doubloons and
goods together (1 good = 1 doubloon) is the winner.

THE BUILDINGS
For all buildings:
- Each player may build each building only once.
- When at least one colonist is in the building, it is considered occupied.
Only occupied buildings have any value (exception: victory points).
- Where a building is placed in the city has no bearing on the game. A
building is placed on an empty city space. A large building requires two
adjacent empty city spaces. A building may be moved within the city to
make room for a large building. However, as with the plantation and
quarry tiles on the island, a player may not remove a building from his
city (to, for example, make room for another building or prolong the game).
- The red-brown number in the upper right corner of each building
indicates how many victory points the building is worth (occupied or
unoccupied) at the end of the game.
- The number in the first circle is the cost to build the building. Once
built, the building cost has no further role in the game.
The production buildings (blue, white, light and dark brown)
The production buildings are required, together with the plantations, for
the production of certain goods:
- In the indigo processing plants, the indigo plants are processed to
produce indigo dye (blue goods barrels).
- In the sugar mills, the sugar canes are processed into sugar (white goods
barrels).
- In the tobacco storage, the tobacco leaves are shredded into tobacco
(light brown barrels).
- In the coffee roasters, the coffee beans are roasted into coffee (dark
brown barrels).

- Note: there is no production facility needed for the corn. Corn (yellow barrels) come
directly from the plantation without any need for processing. That means that, in
the craftsman phase, occupied corn plantations produce corn (yellow barrels)
directly.

The number of circles on the production buildings indicates the maximum
number of goods the building can produce when the circles have colonists
on them. Of course, the player must also have sufficient occupied
plantations of the appropriate kind to produce the raw materials needed to
produce the goods in the production buildings.

Notes:
- The raw materials used in production do not exist in this game. In the example on
page 8, the players get only the end products of their production. The unused
colonists (such as the colonist on the second tobacco plantation and the fourth
colonist in the sugar mills) produce nothing!

- As described under the craftsman, when a player produces a good and the supply
for that good is empty, the player gets nothing.
The violet buildings
There are 17 different violet buildings: two each of the 12 small buildings
and one each of the 5 large buildings.

The special functions of the violet buildings tend to allow players to
break the normal game rules. So, for example, the owner of an occupied
office may sell a kind of goods to the trading house that is already there.
A player is not required to use the special function of an occupied violet
building if he does not want to (important with the wharf, see below).

Small market
When the owner of an occupied small market sells a good in the trader
phase, he gets an extra doubloon from the bank for it.
Example: Anna sells a corn and receives 1 doubloon.

Hacienda
On his turn in the settler phase, the owner of an occupied hacienda may,
before he takes a face-up plantation tile, take an additional tile from the
face-down stack (the top-most) and place it on an empty space on his
island. He may then take his normal turn in the phase.

Note:if a player chooses to take a face-down tile, he must immediately place it on
an empty space on his island. He may not discard it. If the player also owns an
occupied construction hut, he may not take a quarry instead of the face-down tile.
Thus, if the settler owns a hacienda, he may only take one quarry.

Construction hut
In the settler phase, the owner of an occupied construction hut, can
place a quarry on his island instead of one of the face-up plantation tiles.
Note: if the settler owns a construction hut, he may only take one quarry.

Small warehouse
As described under the captain, players must store their unloaded goods
at the end of the captain phase. If a player does not have sufficient
storage space, he must return the goods to the goods supplies.

The owner of an occupied small warehouse may store, at the end of the
captain phase, in addition to the single goods barrel he is allowed to store
on his windrose, all the barrels of one kind of goods that he chooses. The
warehouse protects the player from returning goods to the supply. It does
not protect the player from being required to load the goods onto the
cargo ships.

Note: the goods chosen are not actually stored on the small warehouse tile, but on
the player’s windrose.

Hospice
During the settler phase, when the owner of an occupied hospice places
a plantation or quarry tile on his island, he may take a colonist from the
colonist supply and place it on this tile.

Note: if the player also owns an occupied hacienda and chooses to take the
additional face-down or quarry tile, he does not get a colonist for the extra tile.
If there are no more colonists in the colonist supply, he may take one from the
colonist ship. If there are also none there, he goes without.

Office
When the owner of an occupied office sells a good to the trading house in
the trader phase, it need not be different than the goods already there. If
the trading house is full, the player cannot sell a good there!
Example: the trading house already has a barrel of tobacco. Bob owns an occupied
office and, on his turn, sells a tobacco to the trading house. Chris owns the other
office. On her turn it is occupied, so she too can sell a tobacco to the trading house.

Large market
When the owner of an occupied large market sells a good in the trader
phase, he gets an extra 2 doubloons from the bank for it.

Note: if a player owns both a small and large market, he takes an extra 3 doubloons
when he sells a good to the trading house.

Large warehouse
The owner of an occupied large warehouse may store, at the end of the
captain phase, in addition to the single goods barrel he is allowed to store
on his windrose, all the barrels of two kinds of goods that he chooses.

Note: if a player owns both a small and large warehouse, he may store all the barrels
of 3 kinds of goods that he chooses.

Factory
If the owner of an occupied factory produces goods of more than one kind
in the craftsman phase, he earns money from the bank: for two kinds of
goods, he earns 1 doubloon, for three kinds of goods, he earns 2 doubloons,
for four kinds of goods, he earns 3 doubloons, and for all five kinds of goods,
he earns 5 doubloons. The number of barrels produced plays no role.
Example: David owns an occupied factory, 3 occupied corn plantations, 3 occupied
sugar plantations, 1 occupied tobacco plantation, and the associated production
buildings with the necessary number of colonists. He produces only 2 sugar barrels
and 1 tobacco barrel as there is no corn and only 2 sugar barrels in the supply. He
earns 1 doubloon from the bank for producing 2 kinds of goods.

University
During the builder phase, when the owner of an occupied university builds
a building in his city, he may take a colonist from the colonist supply and
place it on this tile.

Note: if he builds a production building with more than one circle, he gets only one
colonist. If there are no more colonists in the colonist supply, he may take one from
the colonist ship. If there are also none there, he goes without.

Harbor
Each time, during the captain phase, the owner of an occupied harbor loads
goods on a cargo ship, he earns one extra victory point.
Example: the owner of an occupied harbor (and an occupied wharf) can only load 3
of his 5 tobacco on the “tobacco ship” as those 3 fill it up: he earns 3+1 VP. In his
next loading turn, he loads both his 2 sugar on the “sugar ship”: he earns 2+1 VP. In
his next loading turn, he uses his wharf to put his remaining 2 tobacco in the supply:
he earns 2+1 VP. Thus, in this captain phase he has earned an additional 3 VP with
the use of his harbor (and 2 VP extra with his wharf).

Wharf
During the captain phase, when a player with an occupied wharf must load
goods, instead of loading them on a cargo ship, he may place all goods of
one kind in the goods supply and score the appropriate victory points as
though he had loaded them on a cargo ship. It is as though the player has
an imaginary ship with unlimited capacity at his disposal.

The player must load goods on a cargo ship whenever he can on his turn
during the captain phase, except when he chooses to use his wharf and
“load” them on his imaginary ship.

The wharf can only be used once per captain phase by its owner, but he
may choose when to use it, if at all. This imaginary ship can take any one
good, but it may be of a kind on one of the three cargo ships or the other
imaginary wharf ship.

Note: when a player uses his wharf, he must load all the goods barrels of the kind
he chooses that he has. He is not required, however, to choose the good he has the
most of.

An imaginary wharf ship has the capacity for 11 barrels.

The large buildings
The following five large buildings occur just once each in the game. Each
needs two adjacent city spaces to be built, but it counts as one building.
Note: when, in these rules, “large building” is mentioned, it is the following five
buildings that are described!

Guild hall
The owner of the occupied guild hall earns, at game end, an additional 1 VP
for each small production building (occupied or unoccupied) in his city (=
small indigo plant and small sugar mill), and an additional 2 VP for each
large production building (occupied or unoccupied) in his city (= indigo
plant, sugar mill, tobacco storage, and coffee roaster).
Example: at game end, the owner of the occupied guild hall also has a small and
large sugar mill, a small indigo plant, and a coffee roaster in his city: he earns an
additional 6 VP.

Residence
The owner of the occupied residence earns, at game end, additional victory
points for the plantations and quarries he has placed on his island. For up
to nine filled island spaces, he earns 4 VP, for ten filled island spaces, he
earns 5 VP, for eleven filled island spaces, he earns 6 VP, and for all twelve
spaces filled, he earns 7 VP.
Example: at game end, the owner of the occupied residence has filled 10 of his 12
island spaces with plantations and quarries: he earns an additional 5 VP.

Fortress
The owner of the occupied fortress earns, at game end, one additional
victory point for every three colonists on his player board.
Example: at game end, the owner of the occupied fortress has a total of 20 colonists
on his plantations, quarries, buildings, and in San Juan: he earns an additional 6 VP.

Customs house
The owner of the occupied customs house earns, at game end, one
additional victory point for every four victory points he acquired during
the game. The player should count only his victory point chips (and any
extra victory points recorded on paper after the chip supply was exhausted,
but before game end). He does not use victory points earned for his
buildings at game end.
Example: at game end, the owner of the occupied customs house has accumulated 23
victory points in VP chips: he earns an additional 5 VP.

City hall
The owner of the occupied city hall earns, at game end, one additional
victory point for each violet building (occupied or unoccupied) in his city
(city hall counts!).
Example: at game end, the owner of the occupied city hall also has: hacienda, harbor,
office, construction hut, large warehouse, and residence: he earns an additional 7 VP.

• Shop

Puerto Rico Board Game

$44.00

$34.95

You save $9.05 (21%)!

Puerto Rico Board Game allows each player to be a colonial governor on the island of Puerto Rico Puerto Rico board game drives competitoin as you try to out-do your friends at growing and selling crops back to the old country in an efficient manner, or use your resources to build expensive buildings.

Puerto Rico is a fun board game in which there is no right way to play. You can choose who you want to be and how you want to proceed. Will you be the one to own the most property, or will you be the one to try and sell the most products? It’s up to you, as long as you out-play your friends

Age Range:

10+

Number of Players:

Play length:

60-90 Minutes

Manufacturer:

Rio Grande Games

Education:

Economics, Cash Flow

TO START GAME…
The object of the game is to become the biggest contractor in the valley. The first player to an
audited net worth of $1,500,000 wins. The game may also be played for a pre-set amount of
time and whoever is ahead when time is called wins. Or the game may be played, stormed-in
for days-on-end, with an audit to determine the winner when the weather finally clears.
Each player selects a homebase of operation found in the center area of the game board
(Dave’s Dozing, Hard Case Construction, etc.). Each player selects a contractor marker that
matches the color of the homebase office and shop buildings.

Each player starts the game with $100,000 in cash in the following denominations: 5 x $1,000,
3 x $5,000, 3 x $10,000 and 1 x $50,000. In addition, each player qualifies for a line of credit at
the bank of up to $100,000. Players also start with some construction equipment: two
backhoes and one dozer. Peel off the appropriate vinyl equipment stamps from the storage
cards and press the stamps down until they stick to the game board in your home equipment
yard.

$100,000 Cash and a $100,000 Line of Credit
Place contractor markers on YEAR END and get ready to play. Roll the dice to determine
who starts play, highest number wins. Contractors roll one die to move through the year. Play
proceeds clock-wise around the board, following the year through the construction seasons.

HOW TO PLAY…
The color-banded areas of the gaming track are color-matched to one of the five
corresponding machinery types:
Yellow RESIDENTIAL- BACKHOES for digging utilities and house foundations
Green COMMERCIAL – DOZERS for preparing the ground for restaurants and mini-malls
Red INSTITUTIONAL- EXCAVATORS enable you to bid on jobs like schools and hospitals
Blue MUNICIPAL- GRADERS are for the construction of streets and public utilities
Purple HEAVY/HIGHWAY- SCRAPERS build freeways, airports and big dams
The color-banded weeks are the construction seasons for the appropriate equipment types.
Each week within those seasons represents a different job. A player may decide whether or
not to attempt any job, depending upon market conditions. The operating costs spelled out on
the gaming tract, a player’s liquidity and/or appetite for adventure all combine in the equation
to judge the potential gains from a job, to see if they justify the risks in taking that job.

Doing jobs with one’s equipment is the primary way to generate income in this game. To do
a job, a player must land in a week in the construction season where he has the appropriate
equipment (or purchases the equipment just before rolling for job income). A player may
choose to do or not to do any job. If the player refuses the job or doesn’t have the proper
equipment, the operating expenses on the gaming tract and Contractor’s Contingency Cards
do not apply.

To determine job income, roll one die then look at the Rate Chart. Match the number rolled
with the number of pieces of equipment owned in that category, this number is your gross
income. Next, deduct the operating costs shown on the square from your job income (also
draw Contractor’s Contingency Card, if required), then add or subtract figures on the gaming
tract to arrive at the job’s net income paid to the player from the bank. To be eligible,
equipment must have been purchased before rolling the die to determine job income (you may
purchase equipment at the last minute after landing in a construction season, if you have the
required cash or credit). Example: If you own two dozers and have accepted the job on the
last week of April, you then roll for your job income and get a 3.

Other methods of making money include buying trucks and renting them to other players, or
owning the Sand and Gravel, Concrete Plant, Paving Plant, and/or Landfill and selling
necessary services and materials to the other players.

The Bank holds all equipment and property deeds until purchased, accepts payments of
operating expenses and pays for construction jobs.

To buy equipment, trucks and/or properties you may use cash, or a combination of cash and
credit. To purchase anything using credit, First Friendly Bank always requires a player to have
at least 20% of the purchase price in cash on hand, and if sufficient bank credit remains, the
bank will loan the balance by issuing Bank Notes. Equipment prices are posted on the
Construction Rate Chart. Contractors may sell or trade equipment to one another at whatever
price the market will bare. Contractors may purchase equipment at any time during the game,
whether it is their turn or not. For the equipment to be used in a job, it must be purchased before
rolling for job income.

Bank credit may be used at anytime during the game, up to the established limits. At the start
of the game the credit limit is $100,000 per player. After 5 years of operation, that credit limit
goes up to $200,000. After 10 years of operation, a player’s credit limit goes up to $300,000, the
ceiling for the remainder of the game. The bank will not allow credit to be used if poor job
income and high expenses exhaust a player’s cash on hand leaving bills unpaid. As a penalty
for not properly managing cash on hand, your fair-weather banker will not loan money to cover
this short fall. In this case, a player must sell some equipment at Big Sky Auction to raise cash
to cover this emergency.

Equipment auction rules are as follows: Place a piece of equipment in the auction yard,
bidding starts at half the listed value of the piece of machinery. The first contractor to the left of
the bankrupt player starts the bidding. If no contractor bids, the bank will buy it back at half
price. If the sale of the piece of equipment is sufficient to clear the current cash crunch, play
continues. If not, another piece of machinery must be put up for sale until the current bills are
paid.

Buying a Truck entitles a player to avoid paying Trucking bills that exist on the gaming tract,
but not those in the Contractor’s Contingency Cards.

Market indications for the coming season’s contracting work are set in the first five weeks of
every contractor’s year. If a player rolls past those weeks, the market that next year is normal,
but if a player is lucky enough to land on one or more of the first five color-banded weeks, for
that player, construction gross income for the coming year is doubled for all jobs of that type
(color) undertaken. Knowing that a particular construction market will be hot during the coming
year can encourage a contractor to make an investment and buy more of that type of
equipment. A good method to help remember which markets are doubled for the coming year is
turning one stamp of the doubled equipment type at right angles to the rest.

Remember: Turn the stamp back to normal alignment at the end of the year.
Competitive bidding is required on several jobs throughout the construction season. The
contractor who lands on the competitive bid job that can be done with equipment he already
owns or buys to do the job, starts the bidding. The opening bid is $1,000, the highest bidder
gets the job. If the first contractor is the only player with the proper equipment, he gets the job
for the $1,000 opening bid.

Corner squares in the construction season each contain two expenses, the top one applies
only to the job, the bottom one to every player who lands there.
Audits to determine a winner are conducted at the end of play. In the audit, real assets
(equipment and real estate) are recorded at the same value as their purchase price. That
number, added to the cash on hand, subtracting debt equals a player’s net worth.

TERMS…
Gross Profit – The profit from doing a job before the expenses are deducted.
Net Profit – The profit from doing a job after the expenses have been deducted
(this number may be a negative (-) a loss).
Audit – The final accounting of all the game contractors’ net worth.
Net Worth – Real Assets + Cash On Hand – Debt
Year – One circuit around the game board.

MAJOR RULE DIFFERENCES FROM THE FARMING GAME…
A player harvests only once per crop season in THE FARMING GAME – but in THE
CONSTRUCTION GAME every week is a new job. A player can attempt every job they land on,
if they have the proper equipment.

Competitive bid is unique to THE CONSTRUCTION GAME. Every player in the game who has
the proper ‘ equipment has a chance to bid on the job that one player has landed on.
Buying equipment anytime of year, right up to rolling the die for a job is the order of business
in THE CONSTRUCTION GAME. In THE FARMING GAME, all buying is compressed into the
winter season with no buying after Spring Planting.

Any player may refuse any job if the returns look too poor to take the risk. Since most of the
operating expenses for each job are stated up front (written on the gaming tract) in THE
CONSTRUCTION GAME, each contractor has an opportunity to assess the risks before they
act. In THE FARMING GAME, the Operating Expense Cards are drawn only after harvesting.
Every farmer must harvest every opportunity, but only once per crop season.
Draw Contractors Contingency cards only if you attempt a job in THE CONSTRUCTION
GAME. In THE FARMING GAME, draw a Farmers Fate Card every time you land on a square
saying so, whether you own that crop or not.

THE CONSTRUCTION GAME STORY…
In 1992, as luck would have it, a civil engineer named Dave Zimmerman encountered THE
FARMING GAME. Dave’s business is to provide earthwork estimates to construction
contractors. He had also been working on a gaming model to describe the free-wheeling
earthwork construction business when he stumbled across THE FARMING GAME. He was so
impressed with the business gaming model contained within THE FARMING GAME, he
contacted the inventor, George Rohrbacher, and asked George, if through a licensing
agreement, that he might be able to adapt THE FARMING GAME to the construction business.
After some wrangling, the two struck a deal and in 1993 THE CONSTRUCTION GAME hit the
market. Praises for the new game came in from all over the world and the game orders
swamped Dave’s engineering office that first Christmas. Dave was soon forced to choose
between his first love, earthwork engineering, and the game business.

Some years later, George and Dave struck another deal and THE CONSTRUCTION GAME
became the property of The Weekend Farmer Co., George’s game company. Preparing to
manufacture THE CONSTRUCTION GAME in the new library-sized box, George and Ann
Rohrbacher treated the game like they’d acquired a classic automobile. They stripped THE
CONSTRUCTION GAME down to its chaise and then rebuilt it lovingly, piece by piece, to their
exacting factory specifications. The result, as you are soon to see, is one of the best games
you’ll ever play. A close relative of THE FARMING GAME, to be sure, but THE
CONSTRUCTION GAME is no clone! It stands on its own, a raucous good time – a
hoot-and-a-half.
Enjoy!!!